Monday, May 15, 2023

Measure Pants

 Vertical Measurement 

  • Waist
  • Hip
  • thigh
  • Knee
  • Ankle
  • Outside Leg
  • Inside Leg
  • Bonus Straddle



ROUSER  


Vertical Lengths

WL = Waist Length
HL = Hip Length 
CL = Crutch Line
TL = Thigh Length is 3" below Crutch Line
KL= Knee Length 
AL= Ankle Length

Horizontal Lengths

Crotch Depth




h

Thigh Length 

Knee Length 



Ankle Length 


Transferring Horizontal lines 

Start from HL hip line  = hip measurement/4  = 8.75 + 0.25 for allowance = 9"
Mark the 9" on the WL waist line, and CL crutch line
Connect as a straight line.

Horizontal  Hip  




Hip-Crutch-Waist Line Connect



Mark the Waist Line  from the Center Line  
Waist Measurement /4  + 0.25" allowance + 1" for dart
Connect the waist line to Hip line 


Connect the waist line to Hip line



Horizontal - Hip line divided by 4. and add to the Crutch Line

Add Hip line /4 to the length of Crutch 

Draw a crutch curve line - mark 2" from crutch line base to Hip line to form the curve at hip line intersection. 

Find the center line by measure the crutch line + 4" and divide it by 2

Transfer measurement to Waist Line, Hip Line, Knee Line and Ankle Line 

Draw a straight line across connect all center line

TL Thigh measurement divided by 2 

The actual line marking of the Thigh Measurement

Horizontal - center line Knee Measurement/2 

Ankle measurement /2 

Interconnect the lines 


Mark Horizontal - Fold hem add 2.5"

Center Line 4" for the darts on the Waist Line

Darts 1/2" on both sides of center line


Darts marked out 

Add Seam Allowance 1/2" all around Template


Back Panel - Outline from Front Panel with dotted line



Add Zipper line 2" outwards towards the hip :ine


MArk Pocket Line 2" x 6" curve and add seam allowance 1/2 



BACK PANEL

transfer lines from front panel - on waist find mid point from center line to zipper end  and mark it off 


2" added to crutch line 



at that point 2" out crutch line come down 1/2" 



Measure points on crutch to zipper with is 2" and transfer up 2" from waist



Mark 2" 







Transfer the straight waist line to Slant waist line 




Interconnect the top to the side seam 

add 1" allowance around the pants back panel


Final 




Cut Front Pocket

 Pocket is  

From the Front Panel   - knots 1.5" from waist and go down 7" and mark the pocket opening. 






Cut 2 x 7" x 14.5"







Sunday, May 14, 2023

How to cut men trouser - 2 Rear Panels

 

  1. Move the cut fabric over the unused raw material
  2. Add 1.5" for the darts to the waist line 

  3.  Add 1" to the height of the pants back panel (remember we took out 1" from the front panel) only the crutch area must be high the other side will be the same. 
  4. Add 1.5" to the crutch line and 2.5 to the front of the Crutch line on the back panel
  5. Connect the lines as shown in pic 
  6. On the in-seam add 2" down towards the ankle and connect the lines
  7. Checkpoint - 
  8. Checkpoint The out-seam cut identical as the Front Panel - only on the in-seam you add 2" to the edge - Cut the 2 Rear panels 
  9. Fold the back panels into 2 and cut a notch  
  10. The front panel make the pocket 2.5" x7" from the corner 

  11. Test

Reference: 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLnqV_k2vNQ